The UnTourist

The outside of Creperie des Pecheurs

When you talk about crepes, most people think of your typical white flour crepe, and most often a dessert crepe. Yet, crepes exist in some form or another in almost every culture, be it flour, corn, or other grain.

Even within a culture, there are variations and my trip to France introduced me to the buckwheat delight that is the Breton crepe. It has fast become a favorite of mine, especially for savory crepes. One evening, pushing closing time after a long day of touring (and sampling), my hosts and I wandered into the Creperie des Pecheurs at 27 Rue de St. Andre des Arts. Located in the Latin Quarter, an easy walk from Notre Dame, it caught both eye and nose so we decided to try it out.

The upside of Paris is that many places, from museums to restaurants, stay open late. The downside of going in late to a restaurant is that they may be out of things, from daily specials to the specialties of the house. You uses your time as best you can, and takes your chances…

The booths and such are designed to make you feel as if you are on a boat

The establishment was packed, and we had to wait a bit for a table. The inside is done in a nautical theme, with the tables and booths designed to make you feel as if on a boat. This is, among other things, a homage to the Breton coast and the fishing industry for which it is well known.

Drinks arrive, hot tea for a cool evening

The late hour meant a disappointment in that they were already out of the Benodet, or buckwheat crepe filled with Coquilles St. Jacques a la creme, fondue de poireaux. I had been studying the menu during the wait and was eagerly looking forward to trying this specialty of the house. Instead, I “settled” for the Loudeac with pulet, champignons, sauce Normande au vin blanc and some Calvados to warm what the hot tea missed.

My dinner crepe

Ah, I suffer so for you dear readers. The crepe was excellent, and the meal experience quite enjoyable. While I try to not go to the same place twice when travelling, I would be quite happy to go back — a bit earlier this time as the Coquilles St. Jacques still calls to me.

Wherever you are, if you have the chance to try the Breton buckwheat crepes, I strongly suggest you do so. They are a different and tasty take on the crepe, and a treasured part of Breton cooking.

Recommended

Exterior view of L'Atlas

Okay, I’m going to admit to some failings up front. Mainly, my notes are not what they should be, but this very nearly wasn’t my last meal in Paris. What came close to being my last meal was one that ranks as being one of the worst restaurant meals I’ve ever had. Once I finished brushing my tongue as well as my teeth, I went back out and landed at L’Atlas (11 rue de Buci, 75006 Paris). Famished.

Ooops???

So much so I failed to record what I got as an appetizer. Obviously horrible and inedible, whatever it was. It was, however, followed by this:

The Main Course

This wonderful sampler of oysters from different parts of France, offered me three each of Belons (round), Claire, Glardeau, and Creuses to try.

The Belons were briny, but sweet, sweet, sweet — with a bit of surf to round things out. Paired with dark bread and sauce, the flavor changed, and some good parts were lost. With just a drop or two of lemon juice, however, the brine is muted and even more sweet comes out.

Claire showed a sweetness, some brine, and a slight flavor of fish. A drop or two of fresh squeezed lemon juice, and the fish was muted and brought out more of the briny flavor.

My favorite of the evening was the Gilardeau: these large oysters were meaty and sweet, and were like eating a semi-solid sea. Bread and sauce overpowered, and it is easy to let the lemon overpower as well — literally only use a drop or two if you do so. That one drop will cut the brine and bring out the sweetness even more.

The Creuses were briny and salty, but tender. These are another that need no accompaniment, and if you use any lemon juice at all go very light.

While I don’t like going to the same place twice, I may well go back to L’ Atlas next time I’m in Paris. Another diner told me that they do the best mussles in Paris there, and there were other things that looked to be well worth exploring.

Give it a try, recommended.

While it may be heresy to admit, I’ve never been impressed by any of the Wolfgang Puck operations I’ve visited over the years. They are great places to take business clients and such to, simply for the name; however, the food has just never really stood out to me.

That said, under Executive Chef Scott Drewno, thesource in Washington DC did. Located in the Newseum, the group dinner we had there stood out. The heirloom apple and endive salad, with shaved fennel, frisse, roquefort, and pine-nut dressing managed to surprise and entertain. The entree of rotisserie roasted checken with gai lan broccoli and parsnip-chive puree was simple elegance, showcasing chicken that was perfectly done and seasoned to bring out flavors rather than mask. The dessert of warm vahirona chocolate truffle cate with 10 year chocolate sauce and vanilla bean ice cream made for a good end.

The service was good, and able to deal in a fun yet professional manner with an interesting crowd. They gave as good as they got on bon mots, yet never crossed the line.

For the first time, I have to admit I would go back to a Puck operation. I suspect that Drewno is the reason, but after finding the wine note posted yesterday I also realized that I had never written about the meal. Done.

Another year has gone by, and it is time to look at some of the Lafayette area’s best of 2009.  Right now, that means food, and here are some of my picks of what is best in the area.

American/Steaks
TC’s in Battleground
Quite simply some of the best meats in the world, literally.  I’ve never had a bad steak or prime rib there, and usually their worst is on par with the best of some much more renowned chains and establishments.  So much so, that on Prime Rib Thursdays it is not unusual to have people driving in from all over Indiana, and even in from other states, for dinner.  I really do need to see if smoked pork chops are still on the menu, as the last time I had them they were delicious.  I’m not going to swear to anything else, but their steaks are top rate.

FTC Disclaimer:  I’ve had some free nibbles and bites there.  It doesn’t affect my review of their steaks/prime rib, though I do wish the free bites weren’t by the bartender as those hurt…

Chinese
Szechwan Garden
945 Sagamore Parkway, West Lafayette
Consistently the best Chinese food in the area.  The lunch specials are good and at a good price, and the dinner selections cover more range.  The orange beef is quite good, and it is easy to see why it is a specialty of the house.

Cupcakes
Yellow Bowl Bakery
918 Main Street, Lafayette
Okay, the whole cupcake thing sort of escaped me for a long time.  Eating some of the products of the Yellow Bowl Bakery, however, shows me why they became such a hot food commodity.  I’ve not sampled their cakes, but have had slices of several of their pies.  In point of fact, a Kentucky chocolate pecan pie they did was, I must reluctantly admit, better than my Momma’s pecan pie.  I hear good things about their cakes and other products, but need to limit sweets in the new year, at least for a while.

FTC Disclaimer:  I am working with the Yellow Bowl Bakery and Katy Gunderson on Soldiers’ Angels Cooking with the Wounded.  I wish I could say that their pecan pie wasn’t better than my Momma’s, but the relationship doesn’t change facts.

General
Corner Cafe/Bar, Brookston
When I was volunteering at Wolf Park, the Corner Cafe became something of a tradition for dinner between closing and the start of Howl Night.  Trust me and don’t get the 3-piece on the fish and chips, two is enough for two quite often, and the burgers are large as well.  If you are looking for fine cuisine, this is not the place.  If you seek a good solid meal away from

Ice Cream
Silver Dipper
1317 Roundtable Drive, West Lafayette
The ice cream is outstanding, and a good selection is always on hand.  If you are a chocolate fiend, go for the Zanzibar chocolate.  Otherwise, take your time and work your way through.

Indian
Bombay
111 South River Road, West Lafayette
While I have been told of a new place I need to try, Bombay continues to hold the crown for now.  The food is usually good and also more traditionally spiced.  While none of the local establishments does a truly good vindaloo, Bombay comes closest.  They also handle groups with ease, and don’t object if you order off the menu at lunch time (unlike another establishment).

Sushi/Japanese
Heisei
1048 Sagamore Parkway W, #C, West Lafayette
While Heisei continues to hold the crown, that may well change in the coming year.  It still has the best sushi and offers a good range of more traditional Japanese food with options for more traditional seating.  Coming up fast, however, is Maru Sushi, which if it continues to improve as it has been doing, may well take the sushi crown and even the traditional crown.  Giving Heisei an edge is the larger location, but that alone will not save it if the challenger pushes.

Korean
Gaza
3457 Bethel Drive, West Lafayette
While there are other establishments with a wider menu range, Gaza has become my Korean restaurant of choice.  It is much more than just Korean Bar-b-que, with a hot and spicy tofu soup that has become a winter favorite and some spicy rice and noodle dishes that are quite good.  I’m in a bit of a rut there, but that’s okay as the rut is a tasty and satisfying one.  So much so, that it has become comfort food for me.

Mexican
Taco Rico
1325 Sagamore Parkway N, Lafayette
Hands-down, this is the best Mexican food I’ve found so far.  While they don’t offer tamales, they do offer a range of traditional Mexican dishes.  The chicken with mole sauce is very good, and while I haven’t worked up the courage yet, they do offer menudo soup and other staples of the real Mexico.  Tacos al pastor and sopes are a favorite there.  I admit I do go to El Rodeo for pollo ala diabla, but for all else I go to Taco Rico.

Pub
Nine Irish
119 Howard Avenue, West Lafayette
While the Black Sparrow can and does give it a good run for the money, my favorite pub remains Nine Irish Brothers.  The food is good, the drinks decent, and you have good owners and a friendly staff.  From groups and special events, to just nipping in for a pint and some nibbles, the original location remains my favorite pub in the area.

Middle Eastern
Olive House
105 N. Chauncey Avenue, West Lafayette
My understanding is that they split from the nearby Blue Nile, which is runner up, but edge them out based on a Pakistani chicken dish that I have come to love.  The staff is friendly, the food good, and the location not bad.  It really is neck and neck on this one, but Olive House gets the vote. I will note that I had high hopes for another establishment, but a visit with both bad food and bad service blew them out of any shot at the title or my further patronage.

Thai
Exotic Thai
3614 State Road 38 E, Lafayette
Finding really good Thai food is not as easy as it sounds — especially if you have real Thai and homecooked Thai before.  Hands-down, Exotic Thai is the best in the area.  There is fancier, and there is plainer, but the food is good and the staff friendly and considerate.  I love a place that if you ask for it to be prepared Thai-style or native, they ask if you are sure and will even check with other staff to be extra sure before they put the order in.  True Thai is more than heat, but the heat is hot and they want to be sure you will enjoy their creations.  The restaurant has also recently expanded their menu to include some Japanese favorites and a sushi bar.  The sushi is not bad, but I still have to finish working my way through the Thai portion of the menu first.  Almost any of the spicy basil dishes they have are worth trying.