The UnTourist

After the suckitude that was yesterday’s lunch, I wanted something good and decided to try something new-to-me, a local Viet restaurant. While I won’t speak to certain fish sauces, the food is good and can be downright excellent. The last truly good I had was about ten years ago in Philadelphia.

That changed today. GreenLeaf Vietnamese Cuisine in West Lafayette, IN, is good. The Pho was something I wish I had found this winter. In fact, the Pho Tái Bò Viên was good enough I just about tipped the large bowl up and just drank the broth that way at the end. The beef balls and steak were good, but the combination of it (and some extra peppers and a bit of lime) was quite tasty.

The spring rolls I got as an appetizer were made fresh, and the peanut sauce served with them devine. Not your average spring roll, and a reminder of what a good Vietnamese spring roll can be.

Service was excellent, and my host/waiter/etc. (he seemed to have multiple duties) gave good information and suggestions, and service.

This I can recommend, and I will be going back soon I hope to sample more.

Oh, as for yesterday, let’s just say that I went to a place I hadn’t been in a year (consider it the worst of its particular ethnic cuisine in the area) to give it another try. Net result was a lunch that ended up sending me home from work, and had even the dog asking to stay out in the heat and away from me. You won’t find it on any of my food lists or reviews, that’s for sure.

GreenLeaf — recommended.

Street food: often some of the best food you will find anywhere, though it can be a bit of a gamble with problems later. I’ve heard about Indian street food, even seen bits on TV about it on various travel shows. Now, thanks to an enterprising family, I’ve gotten a small taste of it.

Shaukin Indian Fast Food is in south Lafayette, at the corner of 350 South and Concord Road. A couple of people I know from India had highly recommended it to me, and last Saturday I finally had the chance to try it.

The restaurant is small, and is geared towards to-go orders. That said, they have a small table, almost a coffee table, and several chairs where you can sit in cramped delight. From the moment I came in, I was made to feel welcome and the host/proprietor spent a good bit of time talking to me and explaining the different options.

At his suggestion, I explored three dishes: Chicken Frankie, Samosa Chaat, and Dahi Vada.

Chicken Frankie is chicken and vinegar-soaked onions served in a flat bread wrap. It was tasty, tangy, and could be described as an Indian version of the soft-shell taco to someone unfamiliar with Indian food. Nice, not too much, and the spices were strong without being overwhelming.

My favorite of the day was the Dahi Vada, lentil-based “balls” with curd and spices. The flavors were fantastic, and showed what can be done with spices when used fresh, right, and in the right amounts. Not hot, but rich with strong flavors and delight.

The Samosa Chaat was my second favorite, even if the samosa could have used a bit more thawing. The combination of hot samosa with the yogurt, three different chutneys, chickpeas, and onions tickled the senses, while the flavors played well with each other. Taste, texture, temperature — the senses were all used in this delightful dish.

Also, many places claim to serve Lassi, a popular Indian drink made with yogurt, but few truly do. Shaukin does the real thing (or as close as the food police are going to allow), and the Salted Lassi was perfect with the food. Think I’m going to have the Mango next time…

My one complaint is the location — I wish it were closer to downtown or even north of town, as I don’t get south all that often. I may well make it a monthly visit just to sample the rest of the menu, as the Chilli Paneer and Pav Bhaji are calling to me. If you want Indian street food without having to worry about playing health roulette, then go visit this unique and delightful establishment.

Recommended.

As noted yesterday, I decided to try Night Stalker from Goose Island. I will admit up front to a certain bias in regards Goose Island, enjoying both their restaurant and their brews.

Night Stalker is a very hoppy Imperial Stout ale, in fact about the hoppiest I’ve ever had. On the first taste, it is in fact a bit overwhelming. That said, the malts and a hint of chocolate do come out on following sips, but the hops predominate. If you like a different Imperial Stout, this is a good try for you. If you like a more traditional, you will not like it nearly as much.

I’m joining my wine pusher in an experiment: I’m setting aside a bottle or two to let them age. When you have an ale this hoppy, it will continue to mature over time even in the bottle. A good example is a Scottish Ale I brew, that needs to age at least six months before drinking. It will be interesting to see how Night Stalker changes over the next year or so. Of course, that means I need to go buy a few more bottles…

Well, I failed to get a photo of the outside, but the inside should more than make up for things when talking about the Pfeffermuehle Restaurant in Landstuhl.

The start of the evening was a bowl of Housgemachte Goulaschsuppe, or homemade goulash soup. I failed to get a shot of it, but it was tasty with some overtones/elements of minestrone soup that were different from most goulash soups I’ve had before. Different does not mean bad, and this was a tasty start.

The Salad

My meal continued with Salat Der Saison, or salad of the season. Unlike a typical lettuce salad in America, it included some lightly pickled green beans, corn, and other ingredients well complemented by a dressing that included a good bit of dill. It was a tasty way to start the meal.

Venison

The highlight of the meal was Hirschkalbsbraten “Waldmeister Art” mit preiselbeerbirne Kartofflknodel, or venison “Waldmeister Art.” This was some of the best venison I’ve had in quite some time, with the meat not being too gamy but also not so bland that you couldn’t tell what it was. The mushroom-based brown gravy was nigh unto perfect, as were the mushrooms, and the pear and cranberry that came with it were a beautiful match to the flavor of the meat. The homemade noodles were a variant of spatzle, and done to a turn. Not merely boiled as is so often passed off in American restaurants, but lightly browned in a skillet (pan fried) to finish. This was a superb dish, done well without being overdone (in any sense of the word) and is highly recommended.

To go with this, I had a glass of 2004 Dornfelder Trocken that was an excellent match to the entire meal. Sweeter than some reds, it had a nose of sweet red fruit and dark chocolate and a rich full mouth filled with dark plums and higher notes of dark sweet cherries. There was a hing ot dark chocolate in there as well, and a good finish.

Dessert

As this was a celebration of sorts for pulling off a very successful visit, and given that no meal is complete without dessert, the finish was a chocolate ice cream concoction that brought together chocolate in three different ways. I shouldn’t have, but I did, and all I can say is “tasty.”

Cookie Detail

The Pfeffermuehle restaurant came highly recommended from several sources, and it was easy to see why. Not in Landstuhl proper, but up near the medical center, it is well worth the cab ride. Recommended.

Trattoria da Salvatore

One of the drawbacks to business travel is not getting to try more local establishments. Far too often, one is forced to eat at the hotel/convention complex, which is rarely local or that special.

Last night, a local friend took a group of us out for a good dinner, and after travelling down a small road in the woods, we arrived at Trattoria da Salvatore (Fleischackerloch 1, Landstuhl; 063712497). The host greeted our host as a friend, and extended that welcome to us as well.

There were many interesting and good-sounding things on the menu, and all reported being very happy with their choices — and a small amount of sharing confirmed that it was indeed true. If it weren’t for a pesky shellfish allergy, I would love to eat the Salat alla Salvatore (Salad Salvatore) as the small bite I did have of calamari was delicious, and a reminder why I rarely order it in the states as it seldom is as good as it is closer to the Med.

Scaloppina Gorgonzola

My own dish was a scaloppina gorgonzola that was delicious. So much so, in fact, that I almost forgot to take a photo. Other meals were eaten so fast that none were available of them.

If you are in or near Landstuhl, Germany, then this is a good place to eat, and I understand they deliver food, including pizza, to hotels and the nearby medical center. Well worth a try, and a drive or good walk from downtown.

Reposting a previous publication…

An Exterior View

Good food is not about expense, or the complexity of the presentation. It is about flavor, and in bringing forth the complexities of flavor that lie within even the most humble of ingredients. A dish made of three ingredients, where those three ingredients work well together and the synergy brings out every drop of flavor, will always taste better than a dish with 20 ingredients that don’t create that synergy.

Nor is it about the decor of the location. The latest and most hip decorations will not hide food that doesn’t taste good, nor will the whitest most starched table cloths and snootiest waitrons bring out flavors that just aren’t there. Some of the best food I’ve had around the world has come from establishments that well deserve being called humble in terms of decor.

La Pomme d’Aure is not the fanciest restaurant in France, and maybe not even in Bayeux. The food, however, was excellent and the charm of the interior and the host/waiter/cook made it a truly wonderful experience as well.

A Proper Breton-Style Crepe

My entree was the humble leek, done to a not so humble turn in a galette. The buckwheat crepe, long associated with the Breton region, is one of those things that any foodie needs to try. The description of them as a buckwheat pancake is just flat out wrong, and the buckwheat works well with many ingredients, adding both flavor and texture.

In this case, the preparation of the leek was amazing. It was done to perfection, with it being softened in both texture and flavor but not overcooked into a limp mess. The seasonings and sauce brought out the full range of flavor from the leek, so that each mouthful brought out yet more of the flavor. A simple ingredient, but a complexity and richness that made the meal a true delight.

Dessert

Nor did the delight stop there. I splurged on a dessert made with the justly famous apples of Normandy, and I wish I could convey how good it was. I suspect the caramel was local if not homemade, and the cream showed why dairy products from Normandy are prized throughout France. It was an introduction into those products that saw me wishing to be able to transport milk, butter, and more to Germany for my small bit of cooking. In this case, combined with a few spices and the local apples, it took another simple dessert to a higher level.

The Perfect End

After such rich fare, there was only one thing to do. Sit in the warm and drink some very good coffee. The coffee addict in me very much enjoyed the rich, thick, and not bitter coffee that was the norm in most places. It was the right end to an outstanding lunch.

Simple and even humble ingredients. Done right, they transcend and transform into layers of flavor and texture to delight the senses. Add in charm, and you have a very memorable meal.

Reposting a previous publication…

The inside of Le Peres et Filles

I’ve written earlier about one of my two favorite meals in France, and today it is time to talk about the second. Le Peres et Filles in the 6th arrondisment (St. Germain des Pres) at 81 Rue de Seine provided a delightful experience that I still don’t mention around Jenny (my dog) because of the entree. The decor and the down-to-earth attitude of the staff delighted me, and if the weather is nice, the second hardest choice you will make is where to sit: inside or out. Your hardest choice will be deciding what to eat and drink as the menu is solid and the daily specials showcased what was fresh and available.

A view towards the outside seating

Alas, my photo of my salade de chevre chaud did not turn out, but it truly did. It was very tasty, and the wine that I got for the meal worked well throughout, not just with the salad. The wine (Keynes pousses dpinard? notes not clear) was of light body, slightly tart, with strong notes of small red fruit, and a nice clean finish.

Rabbit on the menu

The entree was table de lapin au Porto peles de champeire, or rabbit with mushrooms and a port wine sauce. The rabbit was perfectly cooked, and the mushrooms were a true delight that complemented the rabbit very well. The seasonings were good, and the flavors solid. I’ve not had rabbit in years, and this meal reminded me of how good it can be when well prepared. The wine truly worked well with the dish, cutting it nicely and bringing out the best in the dish.

A Delightful Dessert

For dessert was clafoutis aux poires, and it was excellent. A small bit of the mint that came with it made the pears and flavors explode. The size was perfect as well, not too much for a lunch but substantial all the same.

For me, coffee was a good finish (and possibly start) to the meal. While not a light lunch at all, it also was not heavy and as such did not interfere with later activities. To be honest, I could have sat a while longer just to people watch, as the location is good and our position within the restaurant very nice for such.

No, it is not the fanciest place in Paris, and I am sure that there are better meals to be had, or at least more high end. However, the food was quite good, well prepared, and seasoned. Recommended.

Reposting a previous publication…

An interior view of the cafe

While I have warned against going to any restaurant that employs buskars to bring you in, I have to admit that I had never encountered an establishment that used a tackle. As in an all-pro quality gentleman who I thought for a minute was going to lay my host the English Werewolf out for a ten yard loss.

To be fair, the cause of his excitement is understandable if you are a photographer or photography buff. The English Werewolf, as is his want, refuses to move towards new technology and still uses a venerable (and quite good) Nikon F1 film camera. We had been to visit Sacre Coeur cathedral and had wandered down the hill and into the area that spans Montmartre and Pigale, and were debating upon food or other plans, when the Werewolf was hit. Upon seeing the F1, the host/waiter/tackle/more of Cafe Bruant flew out the door and nearly sacked the good Werewolf in his excitement over the camera. Food being needed, we decided this was an omen and went inside.

A view out the window before me

I did not take many notes, as we ended up talking photography with our tackle; food and Paris with people sitting near us; and, enjoying the view of that part of Paris in the rain. Memory works in this case, however, as the meal was enjoyable.

Entree

Despite the recommendation of the venerable Anthony Bourdain, I had the mussels with a blue cheese sauce (Nos Moules Frites Bleu d’Auvergne) without knowing chef or checking kitchen, and they were wonderful. The big pot hit the spot that night, and the wine recommended (the house Bourdeaux I believe) proved an acceptable accompaniment.

Dessert

I must confess that I’ve forgotten which dessert I ordered, so chose this photo as representative of what we each ordered. Again, good and helped stretch out the time before we had to venture out into the rain sans umbrella. The atmosphere helped encourage relaxation, and I admit it was tempting to stay even longer just to watch the rain and the world go by. This is an area I want to explore further next time I am in Paris, as I suspect one could spend days in Montmartre and Pigale and just begin to scratch the surface.

Another View

The views from the cafe are quite nice, and this is typical of what we saw before the rain hit.

Not quite a real ghost

What we saw afterwards was pretty, but encouraged people to move quickly along. Is that a ghost hurrying by or simply a photographer having fun with settings. I post, you decide. Despite bad directions to the Metro, we managed to finally get there from the cafe without either camera getting damaged. We were a bit moist, but the the hardware got the cover and the safety.

Cafe Bruant is not the finest food in Paris, by far, but it was enjoyable and solid on a cool rainy night. It is well worth checking out, and is a great place to watch people, and the world, go by.

Repost from previous publication

Interior of Fleur de Lys

I’m taking a break today from food in France, to talk a bit about food from France. Well, about a chef from France who has provided me with one of my ten best restaurant meals. That is a fairly select pantheon, for while the restaurants listed there run the range from high-cuisine to low, the fact is that the food that earned them the spot is simply great.

In this case, the food at Hubert Keller’s Fleur de Lys in Las Vegas took me to a new level of food appreciation. While I’ve had some very fine meals, the experience I had showed me new levels of flavor while increasing my appreciation of how things are done and presented.

Eager as I was, I arrived early and joined a few other early birds in a lounge at the front of the restaurant. While I sipped a drink, a staff member appeared with an amuse bouche to sample as I waited. Well before I anticipated, I was taken back to my table and seated. A variety of bread treats were offered, along with butter on a slab of rock salt to help me bide my time as I went through the menu. Being on a budget, I went with one of the prix fixe menu options (not all such options appear on the web site) and a glass of wine.

The service is, as one would expect, exceptional. My waiter was more than simply helpful, they engaged me to find out likes, dislikes, desires, and all the things that would help them make good selections. It was a conversation, and it resulted in an outstanding meal and experience.

My order made, I was presented with an off-menu amuse bouche as I finished my drink from the lounge. This was not the last addition to my experience, but merely a good start to a line of such.

My drink was a departure from my normal, being a green apple martini made from house infused apple vodka, fresh green apple juice, and the glass given a sugar rim with cinnamon. It was deceptively easy to drink, easy and refreshing, just the thing to move me into the evening.

A delightful mouthfull

The amuse bouche was a bite of black cod, fried, with a potato salad and cayenne creme fresh. I almost forgot to take a photo, and blame that on the aroma overwhelming me with a desire to eat rather than to document.

A delightfully different onion soup

My first course was an onion soup with a bite of duck crepe with a slice of truffle underneath, and truffle in the crepe batter. The soup was poured in over the crepe, and was a pleasant departure from traditional onion soup, being cream based and sweet. Onions have a huge amount of sugar in them, and the preparation brought out that aspect very nicely.

Ravioli

The second course was a veal ravioli that both brought out individual flavors while blending them into a harmonious whole. The use of potato and pea shoots truly made the dish.

Not your average filet

My third course delighted this carnivor’s heart: a filet with seared fois gras and a large amount of truffles. The puree beneath and the veggies added depth to the experience. The filet truly was like butter, and could be cut with the fork, and very flavorful. The truffles were almost too much taken by themselves; but, when the meal was eaten together as intended it truly did lead to that wonderful thing described as a foodgasm. I took my time and savored this dish as it richly deserved.

Adding to the experience was the wine selected with the outstanding help of my waiter. A merlot, it was a Pierson St. Emillion Bordeaux 2005 with a strong nose of leather and spice, and a high mouthfeel. Somewhat light at first and slightly acidic, the notes of fruit and spice (anise in particular), chocolate, and a hint of leather rounded out the flavors. The lightness changed dramatically with food, reminding me that some wines truly are meant to be paired to be enjoyed to the fullest. While it worked well with the ravioli, when paired with the filet it became truly outstanding, going from light to rich and robust with flavors.

Dessert Course One

Before my official dessert came, I was presented with a palate cleanser: a sorbet of passion fruit, coconut, and mango, with tapioca pearls and a citrus sauce. Delicious and it did cleanse the palate nicely so that I could enjoy the next course.

A bit of heaven

That course was the official dessert, and was a Grand Marnier souffle with Elderflower sorbet and creme anglais. The sorbet was perfect with the souffle, and the creme anglais was almost unneeded.

A good end

While I was sipping my after dinner espresso and enjoying the orange segment that came with it, one more item arrived for me to try. It is not fair to call it an amuse bouche, for it was several mouthfulls. The chef sent out a plate of petit fours for me to try. To say that I enjoyed them would be an understatement.

This review can’t begin to do justice to the experience. The total meal goes onto that special list, and the filet onto the list of the best beef I’ve ever had. If you are looking for an excellent fine dining experience in Las Vegas, you need to go to Fleur de Lys. Trust your waiter, and I recommend doing a full wine pairing if time and transport allow.

Highly recommended.

A Beer At Work

The duties of the day job claimed their own while in Paris, so I struck out on my own for a while to work on the crisis du jour that had to have immediate attention. Given that the wifi at the apartment of my hosts was not cooperating, I decided to take advantage of the “free” wifi at Le Conti, 1 Rue de Buci at the corner of St. Andre des Arts and Rue Buci.

The weather being quite pleasant, I cheerfully grabbed a spot outside, made my order, and began my work. While not a fun thing to do, it was good to get it done and to do so with some good companionship.

A Neighborhood Dog

A sociable stranger, he was — like Alton Brown — just there for the food. One of my hosts attempted to scritch on a previous day (and restaurant), and was rewarded with a quick dance away and a “Do I know you?!?” look. As long as food was forthcoming, and it had better be good food too, you had a companion of sorts.

Cheese Toast

He did not like the bit of cheese toast I slipped him, and so did not stay long. I, on the other hand, did like it and enjoyed it very much. It made having to take the time to work much more pleasant.

One of the things I very much liked about Paris was that in many places, dogs are welcome guests; and, others like my friend seen here, were tolerated quite well. Here in the States, the food and safety nannies would likely have had fits and ordered a nuclear sterilization of the area to get rid of those nasty dog germs. There, it simply is and no harm comes to any as a result. To my mind, that is far more civilized, safe, healthy, and frankly friendly.

Le Conti was a nice place to work the afternoon, and the beer and food were good. The free wifi was very handy and much appreciated. If you have to work or get online, then it is a good place to do both. I may also go back one day to truly try the food and check it out in greater depth.

Recommended.